Most Common Mistakes and Guidelines for Bathroom Installation
There are a number of common errors observed from most of the bathroom installation. Here is a list of those errors:
• Ignoring or violating local code restrictions
• Employing pipes that are too small
• Attaching copper to galvanized without employing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two
• Not considering Teflon tape or pipe compound especially at threaded joints
• Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures
• Not properly aligning tubing into fitting or stop valves
• Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place
• Not leveling fixtures when installing them
Now, after knowing those errors, I think it is best for you to know some of the standards developed by the federal government for those who are thinking of a bathroom improvement. Note that these standards are highly applicable whether you are planning of designing a bathroom for wheelchair or just to make the room more comfortable and functional for anyone with limited mobility. Here are some of the recommended guidelines:
Entrances
Starting with your entrance into the room, I know that you want to make sure that the door is at least 32 inches wide. If you find that the doorway is located off a hallway and you have a wheelchair that must turn from the hall into the doorway, then the door width must be adjusted to about 36 inches. Also if possible, avoid putting a threshold in the doorway. However, if a particular threshold is needed, you try to choose a flat one that is no more than ¼ inch high, or perhaps one that is beveled on both sides and no greater than ¾ inch high. In case you have a member in the family with limited hand strength, a standard door knob can be very difficult to grip. So, what is commonly advised is to select a lever handle, instead of a knob. The height of this handles must be at 48 inches or less above the floor.
Bathroom Fixtures
As opposed to a conventional toilet which is about 14 to 15 inches above the floor, you can employ accessible toilets which are designed and developed so that the seat is between 17 to 19 inches above the floor. For the sink, you may want to make sure that the rim is no higher than 34 inches above the floor. Aside from that, the sinks should extend out at least 17 inches from the rear wall, and the area under the sink must be opened with a clearance of at least 29 inches starting from the floor to the bottom of the sink. If in case you want your sink to be installed in a countertop, consider putting it no more than 2 inches from the side of the counter. According to some experts, this promotes maximum accessibility. In addition, you can employ a protective boot over the water lines and trap underneath the sink to prevent contact. Use a single-handle, lever-style faucet that is easily operated with one closed fist.
Floor Covering
Many homeowners considered the sheet vinyl flooring as the best choice. The main reason for this could be its smooth quality and its being easy to clean. However, if you are using a ceramic tile, try to choose large and smooth tiles so to lessen the grout lines and some surface irregularities. Also look for a non-slip surface texture. And, if you are considering floor carpeting, stick with naps that are ½ inch high or less.
Interior Clearances
This is another advice for those who are wheelchaired. Well, for you to make a 180-degree turn, a wheelchair needs at least 60 inches, which is 5 feet, of clearance. Note that this amount of clear space is oftentimes difficult to achieve, but consider a T-shaped space instead. Each side of the T must be at least 36 inches wide. According to some experts this configuration will allow space for a wheelchair to be able to comfortably make a three-point turn rather than having to maneuver in a complete circle. Along with this consideration, try to make pathways to any fixtures at least 36 inches wide. And, when it comes to the sink, it should have a clear space in front of it.
Grab Bars
Perhaps one of the wonderful features in just about any bathroom is the grab bars. These even make the bathroom safer and more convenient for anyone to use. Well, it is worth noting that if you are installing a horizontal grab bar, it should be positioned on the wall behind the toilet. You can install another one on the closet sidewall adjacent to the toilet. Also, the grab bars should be placed inside bathtub as well as shower enclosures. If you are remodeling or installing new and the walls in the room are open, make sure to provide wood blocking in the walls. This will allow simplification of the grab bars' attachment.
Okay, enough about those guidelines. Let us now proceed to some steps to install your shower or bathtub.
When thinking for installing a shower or bathtub, it is very important to note that the pipes required include the hot as well as cold supply lines, other than a pipe leading to a shower head. Also, many experts often suggest a blending valve and shower head for the installation, including air chambers.
Usually, the bath or shower fixtures rate low in fixture units. So they are often placed on the branch drains and wet or back vented as are the sinks. Accordingly, both the shower stalls and tubs enter the stack at floor level or below due to the angle of which the floor drain trap is positioned.
When it comes to faucet and shower head assembly, one should note that it requires an open wall for installation. Also worthy of consideration is that, bathtubs and shower stalls may need support framing. One of the common ideas here is that a bathtub filled with water is extremely heavy; therefore, it is important to examine first the building codes, including the framing support prior to the bathtub installation. There is also a required floor area for a shower stall. According to some experts, a minimum area required is 1,024 square inches, but you should also allow 24 inches from the stall itself to any other fixture or wall.
Here are the basic guidelines:
1. All piping should be installed before installing the tub itself.
2. Lower the tub into place. This will allow a continuous flange to fit against the wall studs and rests on 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 supports. In relation to this, don't forget to anchor the tub to the enclosure with nails or screws ensconced through the flanges into the studs.
3. Put together the drain connections. This can be done by way of attaching the tub overflow with the tub drain above the trap, and not beyond it. Note that the trap will have a compression fitting that screw over the arm of the overflow assembly.
4. Run the hot and cold water lines to the tub or shower mixing valve where they are attached. You can do this by sweating these directly into the hot and cold ports of the mixing valve.
5. Run a pipe up the wall for the shower head. Note however that on the top of this pipe, you should sweat on a brass female threaded winged fitting that is nailed or screwed into a framing support.
6. A piece of 1/2" pipe should be extended, but this must be in accordance to the instructions provided by the manufacturer, for the tub spout. Also sweat on a male threaded fitting at the end of the pipe or employ a brass nipple of the proper length as well as a 1/2" cap.
7. At this time, you will need to have your rough plumbing checked.
8. Restore water pressure and inspect the drain connection, including the supply pipes for any leaks.
9. Replace the wall with moisture resistant drywall as a base for your wall covering. Also important to note is to seal joints between the wall and your new tub perhaps with silicone caulk. This caulk will serve as protection against water seepage.
10. It is now time to install the handles, shower head and Spout. Note that the shower head screws onto the shower arm stub out. And, whether you are installing a new shower head or replacing an old one, always clean the pipe threads and apply a new pipe joint compound. You can also consider a Teflon tape or both to prevent leaks.
Installing a Bathtub Surround
As you may know, a bathtub surround (commonly known as wall kit) is an easy way to provide a handsome, watertight and easy-to-maintain barrier around a tub or shower alcove. These surrounds can be put up over plaster, tile, drywall or any solid and flat wall. Well, there some surround kits in the market these days. Most kits contain either three or five pieces that overlap to account for different dimensions. Also, these kits include instructions, which you should consider reading before you leave the store. When installing a bathtub surround, you may require an adhesive as well as color-matched caulk, so consider buying these from the store.
Installing a Bathtub Enclosure
Bathtub enclosures in the first place are a necessary finishing touch to a drop-in tub or a whirlpool tub. So, if you are considering any of those kinds of tub, then consider installing an enclosure.
Installing a bathtub enclosure is actually not as difficult as it looks. You can build it even with a little skill and of course with the right materials. Consider the following:
Types and Sizes
One of the most important considerations when it comes to building a bathtub enclosure is the type of the tub. In particular, the drop-in bathtubs that are made specifically for bathtub enclosures are said to be the best to build around. But, the whirlpool bathtubs are also great for building enclosures around.
An enclosure is basically necessary to hide the water pipes on both the drop-in and whirlpool tubs. So, it is important that when you consider building one, make sure to work around the plumbing as well as the draining systems to avoid interfering with pipes.
